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I was delighted to discover that the South Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of fiery, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

400g waxy potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Add the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the components on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the sauce elements in a container. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.